8 Lessons I Learned while Traveling

Ever since I was a little girl, I dreamt of traveling the world. Now, I’m blessed that I am able to achieve this dream one place after another.  From all of my travels, I’ve learned a handful of things that I feel made me a better person/traveler, and lessons and tips I wish to share to other travel-dreamers as well.

1. People are inherently good and kind.

In most (or if not, all) of the places I've been to, people genuinely want to help out other people. Not because they need something in return, but just because it’s naturally human.

I was solo traveling in Batad, Banaue and teamed-up with 2 Austrian brothers. Apparently, these guys have little cash with them (barely none), and there are no ATMs in Banaue. Along the way, we’ve met Rene, an architect volunteer who’s helping out in the rehabilitation of the rice terraces. Rene paid for the brothers’ “environmental/entrance” fee and helped arranged accommodation and food in one of the inns for the least cost possible. The owner of the inn only charged P200/night and even shared their family meals to the brothers.

Yes, there are 1 or 2 people who will try to cheat/steal from you (pickpockets, merchants charging more than fair, cab drivers taking a longer route), but for every one or two who cheat, there are tens or hundreds who are truly  willing to help.

2. Keep your senses up, especially your common sense

While traveling, all senses must be alert. As you’re in a new place, observe your surroundings and the people. Try to “acclimatize” yourself in your new surroundings and get your bearings in place. Also, trust your instincts or common sense.  If it doesn’t feel right, it probably isn’t. 

I’ve met a Taiwanese traveler who was “drugged and mugged” by an old lady. He said, he was approached by an old lady and offered him to show China Town and some churches. Next thing he remembered, they were riding a tricycle into a slum area, then he was asked to drink beer which he did, and woke up next day, drugged and without  money.  

3. The world is not that big scary place after all

Fear. This is probably what holds back most people from traveling.  But trusting in the natural goodness of people while keeping your senses up, you’ll realize there’s really nothing to be afraid of. 

4. Don’t be afraid to ask.

If lost, ask for directions. If you can’t understand, clarify.

When we were in Taiwan, the lady we asked for directions even logged online to find the directions to our hostel. In Nepal, a kid even walked with me to find the place I was looking for.  Also, when I was asked for direction by another tourist, I gladly walked with her to find a good restaurant.

Again, most people are willing to help.  

5. Learn to say “No”, politely

Merchants will ask you to go and check out their merchandise, tuktuk drivers will ask you to ride their tuktuks.  If you’re not interested, you can politely decline. Smile. Don’t be rude. 

6. Travel Light but with all Essentials

I try to keep my bag within carry-on limit (7kg) so it will be easier to lug around. I usually travel with my 30L backpack. Bring all necessary items such as medicine, printed travel documents, jacket/blanket, “enough” clothes.  For short travels, I always bring a number of set of clothes equal to number of days (plus 1 or 2 extra). For longer travels, note that you can always send your clothes to the laundry (or do laundry yourself). You can always buy essentials such as extra shirt or toiletries wherever you are. The shirt you bought is a good trip souvenir.

7. Carry Cash and Call Your Bank before you leave

One travel mistake I made before was going to a foreign country without cash on hand. I relied on withdrawing in an ATM once I get to the airport. However, my ATM card was not accepted and later found out that I needed to call the bank to activate international withdrawal. Good thing I was traveling with a friend who lent me some money. 

Also, exchange some local currency before you leave the airport for cab rides and other emergency purchases.

8. Call your mobile operator get and/or get a local SIM

Before traveling, call your mobile operator.  Deactivate services you would not need during your travel such as mobile internet (there's wifi almost anywhere). Double check if your roaming service is on and ask for available roaming discounts/plans.

For longer travels, you may need to get a local SIM Card. 

Traveling is a learning experience. Every time I travel, I learn something new, from personal encounters and stories of others. So keep traveling. Never stop exploring.

That almost drowning moment in Bali

The waves were crashing. There was a strong undertow that pulls you away from the shore towards the open sea. A couple of ladies were also in the water and a surf student was being pushed by her instructor by the beach break. I was playing with the waves in waist-deep water. Swimming towards and diving underneath it at the moment it breaks and crashes. (This game I have played countless of times before.) I did this repeatedly, occasionally swimming a bit further (huge mistake). And then the unthinkable happened. I got swallowed by a wave. Whirlpooled under water, I struggled to keep my head out of the water. The water now is too high that my feet can't touch the sand. I panicked. Struggling, I gasped for air and shouted 'Help'. But I got whirlpooled once again. I even felt my head touch the sand. At that moment, I was praying to God to keep me safe from harm. Then I remembered to remain calm (from Rescue Diving lessons and common sense). The set of waves subsided, and I found myself too far off from the shore (probably a few hundred meters). I floated on my back, looking at the sky praying to God to bring me to shore safely. When I felt a bit rested, I tried to swim back to shore since I thought the call for help was not heard. But it was futile effort. It's like running on a thread mill. I remember that I shouldn't be swimming against the current, but with it parallel to the shore. So I tried to do that but still nothing happens. And then, a local came with a boogie board and asked me to hold on to it. After some time, a lifeguard with his orange rescue surfboard came and asked me to ride on and we paddled back to shore. It was pretty cool actually. Then I said my heartfelt thank you's, grabbed a left over pizza and drank Sprite. 

Lessons learned:
1. Swim only in areas with lifeguard on duty, particularly in strong currents. Even if you're confident of your swimming capabilities and 'understanding' of the waves and currents, it's a must to have someone looking after you.
2. DON'T PANIC. I realized that it's easier said than done. But panic may draw the line from life and death.

3. And most importantly,
PRAY.  Probably no need to explain this. But at that moment when I prayed for help, it was when the water calmed down and I had clarity and presence of mind of what to do next. Some may say it's just coincidence, but I know it was an answered prayer, and that God is always looking after us

The Quest for Whang-Od, the last living tribal tattoo artist in the Philippines

My brother mentioned that he wanted to have a tattoo by Whang-Od in Kalinga. He said she may be the last living tribal tattoo artist in the country. At age 93, she has a few remaining years left.

Upon hearing the story, I wanted to go, to see and meet Whang-Od.Not specifically to get a tattoo, but just to meet her and see the life she lives. And so i did my research online, piecing together tidbits of information from various blogs and articles until I tumbled upon two crucial relevant information--how to get there and who can guide us around.

The fastest way to get to Whang-Od's home in Buscalan, Tinglayan, Kalinga is through Bontoc. And perhaps the most convenient way to Bontoc is via Cable Tours (Contact: +63.929.819.4688, Location: E. Rodriguez QC, behind Trinity College). Note: you would need to reserve tickets via phone.

Also, for first-time travellers you would need a guide to go to Whang-Od, and for that, Francis Pa-in (+63915.769.08.43) is the man .

Cable Tours bus. Stop-over somewhere very foggy

We were supposed to travel December 26-30, like our almost annual family adventure trips. But when we contacted Francis he mentioned that he has 3 other groups that time and recommended that we go Jan 11 instead.  And so we did.

We took the 8:30pm Manila-Bontoc bus trip. Our ETA was 830 AM but due to traffic, road constructions, and perhaps longer stop-overs, we arrived 9:15AM. Francis met us by the bus stop and mentioned that our transfer bus going to Buscalan has already left the 9 am trip so we needed to wait for the next jeep leaving by 1 PM.  We rested for a while, went to Bontoc Museum, had quick lunch and to the jeep going to Buscalan.

When you're in the north, you got to ride top load of a jeep. The air is fresh, the view is spectacular. Imagine, moving parallel to the Chico river with mountain ranges and rice terraces alternating on the background. But the ride is quite uncomfortable, having yourself sitted on iron bars finding that perfect spot to position your butt cheeks, at the same time keeping your balance and grabbing something you can while riding the bumpy, winding, on-the-edge-of-a-cliff road.

View from the topload. Chico River + Rice Terraces

Best seat .

Co-passengers on the topload. 

After an 1.5 hour ride, we alighted at Bgy. Bugnay. From here, we start our journey by foot.And it donned on me, I'm not physically prepared for this trip. No Exercise + Holiday Weight = Oh No moment. With a heavy backpack filled with 4-day worth of clothes, toiletry kit with loads of bottles of stuff, canned goods and snacks, I can only take a few inclined steps. Francis, our guide, volunteered to exchange backpack with me. His load is a bit lighter, but I still have to battle against the inclined soil steps. For a moment, I wanted to turn around or at least turn-on my whiny mode, but I didn't want to cause delay or hassle to my brothers. I came all the way here to see Whang-Od, and that's what I will do.

Two hour trek

Thank God the initial steep inclined only lasted for less than 30 minutes, then we walked a long flat scenic route. And then we entered a forest, walked along its slippery steps, passing by water falls, and make-shift bridges over a ravine, rice terraces, and  another set of steep steps. My feet hurt, my calves hurt, my right knee hurts. At moments, I regret all the sweets I ate over the holidays and all the times I chose to take the escalator rather than the stairs. School children passed by us (ok just me), and my pride was challenged. I was grasping for breath, sweating buckets, thinking how physically impossible this task may be. Then these school just walked happily, telling stories and laughing. And they do this every single day.

Don't look down

At last we arrived Whang-Od's village. When we arrived, she was on the "bukid"/fields. This 93 year-old lady still goes farming! A few minutes later Whang-Od arrived. She is a very sweet old lady who doesn't speak a word of English or Tagalog. Francis, our guide, translates for us.

Some of the men from the village went to the house and we shared some of the Tanduay Rhum we brought. Apparently, hard drinks are not available/allowed in that area (even in Bontoc). But beer is allowed, and grass is abundant. The bottle of Tanduay only lasted for a few minutes, then the men dispersed one by one.

Whang-Od drinking with the guests

Dinner

We were called for dinner by the kitchen where we ate vegetables sauteed with the can of sardines we brought. About 7PM we were ready to sleep. I dozed off by 8PM and woke up the next morning by the sounds of rain hitting the roof and the ground.

My initial thought was 'how are we going to trek back with this rain'.  Eventually, the rain subsided to light shower. We had breakfast. Whang-Od did performed her tattoo tradition on my brother.

Kalinga traditional tattoo process of hand-tapping is called "batok". Whang-Od creates ink by mixing "uling"/charcoal collected from the bottom of the rice pot as it cooks over fire and fresh water.The combination will make a dark paste called "merteka". Using a dry straw, she draws a template on the skin. Then using a thorn of pomelo as a needle and a stick to hold it in place, her precise hand would lightly tap on the stick to pierce the skin. The process is repeated several times until the tattoo is dark enough. My brother's tattoo took about an hour to finish.

The charcoal collected from the bottom of the rice pot makes the "Merteka"

Whang-Od

After, we walked up the village and saw how the Tinglayans live. I am overwhelmed on the simplicity of their lives. They grow and harvest what they eat.What they plant and harvest from the fields are for their family's consumption and not for selling.  They make what they need. They are very peaceful, polite people. Quite hard to reconcile that they are from a lineage of headhunters. We distributed some matchsticks to the villagers and candies to their children. Then we returned back to Whang-Od's house to say our thank you's and goodbyes.

traditional Kalinga house

"Baboy-ramo"/ Wild boar

The children of Buscalan asking us for some candies

The blacksmiths.

  

I purchased my first hunting knife

with Whang-Od

We trekked back under scattered rain, and we reached Bugnay soaking wet. A few minutes after, the bus going to Bontoc arrived. We quickly said goodbye to Francis and boarded the bus. In the quite uneventful ride back, I relived in my mind the awesome cultural immersion we had in less than 24 hours. Though I did not get a tattoo permanently inked on my body, the experience of living in a Tinglayan village and in Whang-Od's home will forever be tattooed in my mind and my heart. And maybe,the next time I visit Whang-Od, I'll have the courage to be a canvass to tribal art.

Bangkok Solo Backpacking Part 2

Date Trip: April 10, 2012

Woke up at about 6am, packed my stuff, left it at the reception,  and checked-out early from the hotel.

The primary reason I chose the @Hua Lamphong, the hostel I stayed in, is its accessibility to the Hua Lamphong Railway station.

Morning Walk Sight-- Monks lined up

Hua Lamphong Railway Station

I walked to the station and bought my train ticket for only 20 Baht. About an hour and a half until my train arrives so I had a quick breakfast in a local bakery and chilled for a while.

Train ticket to Ayutthaya

All sorts of travelers

The train is a Class C economy train. There are some foreign travelers who boarded the train and will alight in Ayutthaya. But most of the riders are locals going out of the city perhaps to their native provinces.

The trip is an more than an hour long. As I arrived, I walked around the station weighing my options. So, how would I go around Ayutthaya? Will I join the young European couple who sat across  me by the train or the couple of Korean guys who were . Anyways, I decided to just go by myself so I can be at my own pace.


I hired a tuktuk which cost me 400Baht to tour me for 2 hours visiting 4 temples. It's quite pricey though since I was alone, but I guessed it was the cheapest way to go around Ayutthaya anyhow.

My tuktuk and lady tuktuk driver

And here are snapshots of temples in Ayutthaya.


Wat Yai Chaimongkhon

Wat Yai Chaimongkhon

Wat Yai Chaimongkhon

Wat Maha That

Buddha Head on Tree, Wat Maha That

Wat Maha That

Wat Maha That

Wat Maha That

Wat Chaiwattanaram
This temple was actually closed during my visit since for precautionary measures since it was damaged by the last Thailand flood.

Wat Chaiwattanaram

Turista-shot care of other Pinoy tourists I encountered.

Wat Lokayasutharam

My tour ended around 11:30 AM. I had a quick modest lunch of barbecued chicken and rice in the sort of eatery fronting the train station. My lunch cost only about 40Baht.


I waited for a train back to Bangkok. Train ride going back costs cheaper at 15Baht.  The ride was long, hot, and sticky.


When I get back to the city, I tried hailing a cab going to Platinum Mall to no avail. I guess, it's rush hour and cab drivers here choose their passengers as well. So I asked the hostel receptionists how to take the MRT and BTS (Bangkok Train System) to Platinum. After giving me some written directions, off I go.


My quest to Platinum through Bangkok's city train systems is an adventure by itself. I got lost several times, boarding on or alighting from a station that sounds rather very similar to the one I was supposed to. And there was that time where I destroyed the ticket machine in one of the stations. (Another Nel moment for the books!)


So how in the world did I destroy a BTS Ticket Machine, you may ask? So, in the MRT, you're given chips as tickets. Apparently in BTS you're given a card (which I didn't know that time). I lined up the ticketing booth, told the man behind the counter my destination, gave my money bill, and he gave me coins.  I thought the coins were the tickets, a less high-tech version of the ticket chips from the MRT. So i dropped it in the ticket machine. And it got stuck. They have to open up the machine to retrieve my coin.  The man gave me coins to buy tickets from the ticket vending machine! I wanted to be swallowed by the ground, and I felt that the BTS guys were thinking that I am such a stupid tourist.  Well perhaps I was. So anyways, the ticket machine broke, and even when I returned back from shopping in Platinum the machine is still broken.


I returned from shopping late in the afternoon, showered, and went to the airport.
Tired and anxiously waited for my plane to bring me back home.


As I was excited to embark on that epic 4-country semi-solo trip, I was more eager to come back home.

Bangkok, Thailand Solo Backpacking Part 1

Date trip: April 9.


This is the last leg of my backpacking adventure.

I arrived Bangkok about 5pm, rode the airport express train, walked, transfered to the MRT, and alighted in Hua Lamphong station where my hostel, @Hua lamphong inn, is located.

I booked a solo room which costs about 650 Baht. It's ok in the sense is that it has a bed, fridge, own bathroom, and a flat screen TV. However, the room is on the 5th floor and there is no elevator. The absence of a wide open window made me feel claustrophic and I seem to be in a prison cell more than a hotel room. This cramped space made me miss home.  


Anyhow, I went down the lobby, asked the receptionist who happened to be lady-boy, how to get to Platinum mall but he/she said it's already closed and advised me to go to Silom instead (or at least that's what I heard). 


So I boarded the MRT alighted at Silom, looked for any semblance of a shopping center to no avail. I walked aimlessly, saw a Thai massage place and went in. I looked at the menu and prices, I felt weird when I saw an option of 'Massage with Cream', and felt weirder when I saw a set of index cards with photos of the therapists--all male. I asked if they have female therapists, and the guy said 'no, only male'. So I excused myself and went out.  Dafuq did I enter into! 


I rode back the MRT back to Hua Lamphong, walked along the hostel street and saw a massage place. Checked it out, and yup, female therapists! Not that shady kind of place. I had a traditional Thai massage for 200baht. My therapist is an old lady, perhaps in her 60s, but she has incredible strength. It's one the better massages I had.


After the invigorating massage, I walked back and I saw a food stall in an alley. They cook as you order. I ordered fish tom yam, and its the best fish tom yam I ever tasted.
  

After dinner, went back to the hotel to sleep.


Tomorrow, I commence Temple Run.

Three Countries, One Day

This day  marked an epic day, well at least for me. 3 meals in 3 different country. Breakfast in Yogyakarta, Indonesia. Lunch in Kuala Lumpur Malaysia. Dinner in Bangkok, Thailand.

After the complimentary buffet breakfast in Hotel Santika Jogja, we flew out to Kuala Lumpur. The flight from Yogyakarta to KL was the noisiest flight I've ever been. The other passengers mostly Indonesians kept on talking and talking in loud voices during the flight. In other flights I've had, chatters only happen on the first few minutes then dies down eventually . But no! In this flight, they were just talking and talking from take off to landing.

Anyways, we landed in KL in one piece.

Here, my companions go back to their daily grind lives in KL, while I catch another flight to Bangkok.

Craving for some  Westernized Asian food, we ate in Marrybrown and I ordered some fried chicken with nasi lemak.

Then off to my 3 hour flight to Bangkok.

In Bangkok, in Hua Lamphong,  in some alley  where the drivers eat, I had the most delicous fish tom yum I've tasted for only 60 Baht!

 
Today is epic meal time.

Yogyakarta, Indonesia Part 2

Today we toured Central Java.

In a hired van which costing us IDR 100,000 each, we went to see the beauty Java offers.

Our first stop is the ruins of the magnificent Borubudur temple. Borubudur is the single largest Buddhist in the world and one of  UNESCO heritage sites. Built in the 9th century the ruins were rediscovered  in 1814 by Stamford Raffles, the founder of Singapore. The temple has 6 square platforms, and three circular platforms on top.

Borubudur Temple

This is the most popular tourist spot near Yogyakarta. About 1.5 hours drive from the city, we arrived at 10am and the sun was scorching hot. Again, we got tickets as locals which saved us about 80% of the costs.

Visitors here are mostly locals (or maybe they pretend to be locals like us. Hmmm I doubt). There are some Western visitors, but Asians outnumber them. Outside the gates were vendors and hawkers selling water and souvenirs and renting umbrella. Upon entering, we got some sarong. Actually, the sarong are for those wearing shorts or sleeveless tops. (It's a holy place of worship, so decent clothing is required.)  But since everyone is getting, we got as well.

Then it's a whole lot of picture taking.

Elephants at Borubudur Temple

One of the 504 Buddhas

And more temple running.

We rode a kalesa on our way back from the temple to the van and headed for lunch in Sekar Kedhaton, a nearby restaurant behind a silver factory store.

Then we drove to View Deck wherein our view suppose to span from Mt. Kerapi, an active volcano to another mountain. It was a long drive up, and when we arrived it was raining and foggy. We weren't able to get out of the car and we didn't see the said spectacular view. We just bought some grilled corn and ate it in the car.

We went back to the city and headed to Marioboro Market which is lined up with Batik stores, souvenir shops, street vendors and more street vendors. It reminds me very much of Divisoria.

For dinner, we ate in an eatery which serves Gudeg. Gudeg is  young jackfruit stewed with palm sugar and eaten with rice, opor ayam (a sort of chicken curry or adobo), a hard-boiled egg, spicy buffalo skin (which is like soft chicharon), and tofu. 

Then, we had a quick stop in the only mall in Yogyarta for some Starbucks and we called it a night. An early trip tomorrow awaits.