That almost drowning moment in Bali

The waves were crashing. There was a strong undertow that pulls you away from the shore towards the open sea. A couple of ladies were also in the water and a surf student was being pushed by her instructor by the beach break. I was playing with the waves in waist-deep water. Swimming towards and diving underneath it at the moment it breaks and crashes. (This game I have played countless of times before.) I did this repeatedly, occasionally swimming a bit further (huge mistake). And then the unthinkable happened. I got swallowed by a wave. Whirlpooled under water, I struggled to keep my head out of the water. The water now is too high that my feet can't touch the sand. I panicked. Struggling, I gasped for air and shouted 'Help'. But I got whirlpooled once again. I even felt my head touch the sand. At that moment, I was praying to God to keep me safe from harm. Then I remembered to remain calm (from Rescue Diving lessons and common sense). The set of waves subsided, and I found myself too far off from the shore (probably a few hundred meters). I floated on my back, looking at the sky praying to God to bring me to shore safely. When I felt a bit rested, I tried to swim back to shore since I thought the call for help was not heard. But it was futile effort. It's like running on a thread mill. I remember that I shouldn't be swimming against the current, but with it parallel to the shore. So I tried to do that but still nothing happens. And then, a local came with a boogie board and asked me to hold on to it. After some time, a lifeguard with his orange rescue surfboard came and asked me to ride on and we paddled back to shore. It was pretty cool actually. Then I said my heartfelt thank you's, grabbed a left over pizza and drank Sprite. 

Lessons learned:
1. Swim only in areas with lifeguard on duty, particularly in strong currents. Even if you're confident of your swimming capabilities and 'understanding' of the waves and currents, it's a must to have someone looking after you.
2. DON'T PANIC. I realized that it's easier said than done. But panic may draw the line from life and death.

3. And most importantly,
PRAY.  Probably no need to explain this. But at that moment when I prayed for help, it was when the water calmed down and I had clarity and presence of mind of what to do next. Some may say it's just coincidence, but I know it was an answered prayer, and that God is always looking after us