When in doubt, Paddle Out

Looking out to the shore with waves breaking, board tucked under my left arm, the thought running in my mind is that "should I even do it?' . After my near drowning experience a few years back, a piece of my courage seem to have been taken away. Or maybe, just maybe, it's natural progression in life that as I get older, I abandon the recklessness of my youth and be more fearful of life and of getting hurt.

But, I take one breath and work up the courage to walk through the water, ride my board and paddle out. I am not a great paddler. In fact, I paddle slow and weak. In this course of trying to paddle out to the line up , the inevitable happens. I saw a set a waves about to break at where I am. All I can say is f*ck. Why am I doing this again? Why do I have to gamble my life when I can be perfectly relax on the shore admiring cute surfers instead? All these thoughts while I spin under water, praying that my board doesn't hit me (as I was already once rushed to the hospital to have stitches on my thigh from a fin cut).

The waves subside. I grasp for breath, go up my board, and continue paddling out to the line up.

And then I wait.
Wait for a good wave to catch.
As one approaches, I try to paddle and stand. A failed attempt.
And then I try again.
I wait and try. Wait and try. Until I finally catch one .

And when I do, it's an exhilarating experience. Riding a wave is pure bliss. Those few minutes or probably just few seconds of surfing the wave make all that struggle worth it .

After a good ride, I paddle back to the line up, hoping to catch another and another, until I feel either stoked or exhausted.

This is same as how life pans out. It's a series of doubts and fears and taking courage. Of regrets and of waiting. Of trying and failing. Of getting back up and succeeding.
And at the end of it all, being happy.

Solo Backpack trip to Europe (Part 1: Planning)

(Note: Publishing this post almost a year after the trip. I hope I still remember the details)

Backpacking in Europe has always been on my bucket list.  So realizing I will have a one week off for Lebaran (Eid al-Fitr ), I was mentally drafting an itinerary and looking out for inexpensive plane tickets.

I used Kayak App for researching and comparing various airline prices. I subscribed to updates if there are price changes on the trip details. After a few days of price watching, I finally settled to book a flight via Etihad Airlines.  The itinerary: Jakarta-Abu-Dhabi-Paris then Rome-Abu Dhabi-Jakarta, with layover of 4-5 hours each.

As it was holiday in Indonesia, prices are not necessarily cheap. I booked my tickets for around $1,700. I know in lucky days, one can even purchase roundtrip tickets for less than $1000. But since I’m traveling on a national holiday, I have to live up with the price premium.

After which, I checked requirements on how to get a Schengen Visa.  I applied through Italian Embassy (via VFS) since I plan to stay longer in Italy.  In multi-country visit, you need to apply VISA to the country you’re staying the longest. If you have the same length of stay in all countries, you apply on the country you’ll first visit. For the Visa, I needed to prepare my plane tickets, hotel reservations, certification of employment, and bank certificate as part of requirements.

The next few days were spent researching on accommodations. Traveling alone means accommodations will be more expensive unless I opt to stay in hostels wherein I can get a dormitory bed for less than 40 Euros. However, for this trip, I felt I needed to upgrade from hostel bunk beds and get a nice, cozy, but affordable room for myself.  One of my options is staying in hostel but have a private room.  This is an attractive option, since staying in hostels means you get to meet and talk to other people who share the same passion of travel as you have.

I used mainly Trip Advisor to research on my accommodation options. Here, I get to sort my options—budget, accommodation type, ratings etc, and more importantly, I get to read reviews of other guests.  After I mark my choices, I checked out different booking sites such as booking.com, agoda.com to check out best deals and book my hotel accommodation.

After completing my Visa Requirements, I scheduled an appointment with VFS through email (since their online registration site is down). It is recommended to schedule appointment a month before the planned trip. During the appointment, I submitted all requirements and paid the Visa Application Fee (worth IDR1.2M or 100 Euros).  After a week, I received a notification via email, that my Visa is ready for pick-up.  

2 days before the trip, I went to the bank and bought some Euros. In most of my travels, I just usually withdraw local currency in my destination. But for this one, to be sure and to avoid any unnecessary hassle, I just bought Euros while in Jakarta. I may have paid a few more because of exchange rate differences, but I guess it’s worth it.

A day before the trip, I finished my packing. I said to myself that I wanted this to be a backpack trip.  I was tempted to use my 4-wheeler luggage, but have to remind myself that the goal is to “backpack in Europe”. Never mind the fact that I have 30kilos luggage allowance, I fit my stuff in my ever-reliable red Conquer backpack. This is the same backpack I used for a 7-day autumn/winter trip in China, 7 days December-trekking in Nepal, amongst others. So an 8-day summer Europe trip still made the backpack a bit roomy.

And I’m off and ready to go!  

I was a bit paranoid for the trip, since there were several plane crashes in the span of 3 weeks.  I was never afraid of plane rides, but this one is different. I had to request for prayers from friends and family and prayed for safety as well. (Oh! There is a travel prayer as well in Etihad planes, after the safety briefing).

Thank God for the safe journey!

Solo Trip to Batad, Banaue Rice Terraces

Trip Date: July 2013

Sometimes, you feel the need to escape the city just to get fresh air.

So that's what I did. Traveled 12 hours from Manila to Banaue solo.

In Banaue, shared a jeep with 2 Austrian brothers, whose names I can't pronounce, hence can't remember. They were my travel companions to Batad. 

My Batad travel companions

Along the way, we met Sir Rene, an architect who's helping with the rehabilitation of the Batad Rice Terraces. Rene tells us stories and helped us settle in Batad. We stayed at Rita's.

After a quick rest, the Austrian brothers and I hiked to Tappiya Falls passing through the rice terraces and other Batad villages. A very memorable pit stop is the village by the foot of the terraces. Here we witness an old Ifugao grandmother pounding rice for her family.

A few more kilometers of hiking, we reached Tappiya Falls. I was not physically conditioned for a hike, and strained my self. My legs cramped and had difficulty walking back. It rained as we were walking back, and reached the inn just before darkness came.

Tappiya Falls

The next day, I woke up with aching legs, that I can't even walk without difficulty. With Josie, our guide, I walked (or limped) back to Saddle Point to catch a jeep back to Banaue. They said, jeepneys will leave by 9am. However, no jeepneys came and so I back ride on a motorcycle going back to town.

Back in the town, I was confronted with two choices-- go back to Manila, or go up to Sagada. I chose the latter, injured legs and all. So took another jeep to Sagada, befriended the other passengers, and continued the adventure.

Batad

One Way Ticket

Okay! So I am partaking the longest travel of my life. Probably  my biggest adventure yet. I have accepted a role in Jakarta, indefinitely. It’s a leap of faith, if you may say—accepting a job in a city I’ve never been in before, choosing to live in a country foreign to me, leaving a very comfortable home and career. Call it brave. Call it reckless. It’s just something needed to be done.  As faced with choices of staying put or moving on, choose to move.  Life begins at the end of comfort zone.

8 Lessons I Learned while Traveling

Ever since I was a little girl, I dreamt of traveling the world. Now, I’m blessed that I am able to achieve this dream one place after another.  From all of my travels, I’ve learned a handful of things that I feel made me a better person/traveler, and lessons and tips I wish to share to other travel-dreamers as well.

1. People are inherently good and kind.

In most (or if not, all) of the places I've been to, people genuinely want to help out other people. Not because they need something in return, but just because it’s naturally human.

I was solo traveling in Batad, Banaue and teamed-up with 2 Austrian brothers. Apparently, these guys have little cash with them (barely none), and there are no ATMs in Banaue. Along the way, we’ve met Rene, an architect volunteer who’s helping out in the rehabilitation of the rice terraces. Rene paid for the brothers’ “environmental/entrance” fee and helped arranged accommodation and food in one of the inns for the least cost possible. The owner of the inn only charged P200/night and even shared their family meals to the brothers.

Yes, there are 1 or 2 people who will try to cheat/steal from you (pickpockets, merchants charging more than fair, cab drivers taking a longer route), but for every one or two who cheat, there are tens or hundreds who are truly  willing to help.

2. Keep your senses up, especially your common sense

While traveling, all senses must be alert. As you’re in a new place, observe your surroundings and the people. Try to “acclimatize” yourself in your new surroundings and get your bearings in place. Also, trust your instincts or common sense.  If it doesn’t feel right, it probably isn’t. 

I’ve met a Taiwanese traveler who was “drugged and mugged” by an old lady. He said, he was approached by an old lady and offered him to show China Town and some churches. Next thing he remembered, they were riding a tricycle into a slum area, then he was asked to drink beer which he did, and woke up next day, drugged and without  money.  

3. The world is not that big scary place after all

Fear. This is probably what holds back most people from traveling.  But trusting in the natural goodness of people while keeping your senses up, you’ll realize there’s really nothing to be afraid of. 

4. Don’t be afraid to ask.

If lost, ask for directions. If you can’t understand, clarify.

When we were in Taiwan, the lady we asked for directions even logged online to find the directions to our hostel. In Nepal, a kid even walked with me to find the place I was looking for.  Also, when I was asked for direction by another tourist, I gladly walked with her to find a good restaurant.

Again, most people are willing to help.  

5. Learn to say “No”, politely

Merchants will ask you to go and check out their merchandise, tuktuk drivers will ask you to ride their tuktuks.  If you’re not interested, you can politely decline. Smile. Don’t be rude. 

6. Travel Light but with all Essentials

I try to keep my bag within carry-on limit (7kg) so it will be easier to lug around. I usually travel with my 30L backpack. Bring all necessary items such as medicine, printed travel documents, jacket/blanket, “enough” clothes.  For short travels, I always bring a number of set of clothes equal to number of days (plus 1 or 2 extra). For longer travels, note that you can always send your clothes to the laundry (or do laundry yourself). You can always buy essentials such as extra shirt or toiletries wherever you are. The shirt you bought is a good trip souvenir.

7. Carry Cash and Call Your Bank before you leave

One travel mistake I made before was going to a foreign country without cash on hand. I relied on withdrawing in an ATM once I get to the airport. However, my ATM card was not accepted and later found out that I needed to call the bank to activate international withdrawal. Good thing I was traveling with a friend who lent me some money. 

Also, exchange some local currency before you leave the airport for cab rides and other emergency purchases.

8. Call your mobile operator get and/or get a local SIM

Before traveling, call your mobile operator.  Deactivate services you would not need during your travel such as mobile internet (there's wifi almost anywhere). Double check if your roaming service is on and ask for available roaming discounts/plans.

For longer travels, you may need to get a local SIM Card. 

Traveling is a learning experience. Every time I travel, I learn something new, from personal encounters and stories of others. So keep traveling. Never stop exploring.

That almost drowning moment in Bali

The waves were crashing. There was a strong undertow that pulls you away from the shore towards the open sea. A couple of ladies were also in the water and a surf student was being pushed by her instructor by the beach break. I was playing with the waves in waist-deep water. Swimming towards and diving underneath it at the moment it breaks and crashes. (This game I have played countless of times before.) I did this repeatedly, occasionally swimming a bit further (huge mistake). And then the unthinkable happened. I got swallowed by a wave. Whirlpooled under water, I struggled to keep my head out of the water. The water now is too high that my feet can't touch the sand. I panicked. Struggling, I gasped for air and shouted 'Help'. But I got whirlpooled once again. I even felt my head touch the sand. At that moment, I was praying to God to keep me safe from harm. Then I remembered to remain calm (from Rescue Diving lessons and common sense). The set of waves subsided, and I found myself too far off from the shore (probably a few hundred meters). I floated on my back, looking at the sky praying to God to bring me to shore safely. When I felt a bit rested, I tried to swim back to shore since I thought the call for help was not heard. But it was futile effort. It's like running on a thread mill. I remember that I shouldn't be swimming against the current, but with it parallel to the shore. So I tried to do that but still nothing happens. And then, a local came with a boogie board and asked me to hold on to it. After some time, a lifeguard with his orange rescue surfboard came and asked me to ride on and we paddled back to shore. It was pretty cool actually. Then I said my heartfelt thank you's, grabbed a left over pizza and drank Sprite. 

Lessons learned:
1. Swim only in areas with lifeguard on duty, particularly in strong currents. Even if you're confident of your swimming capabilities and 'understanding' of the waves and currents, it's a must to have someone looking after you.
2. DON'T PANIC. I realized that it's easier said than done. But panic may draw the line from life and death.

3. And most importantly,
PRAY.  Probably no need to explain this. But at that moment when I prayed for help, it was when the water calmed down and I had clarity and presence of mind of what to do next. Some may say it's just coincidence, but I know it was an answered prayer, and that God is always looking after us

The Quest for Whang-Od, the last living tribal tattoo artist in the Philippines

My brother mentioned that he wanted to have a tattoo by Whang-Od in Kalinga. He said she may be the last living tribal tattoo artist in the country. At age 93, she has a few remaining years left.

Upon hearing the story, I wanted to go, to see and meet Whang-Od.Not specifically to get a tattoo, but just to meet her and see the life she lives. And so i did my research online, piecing together tidbits of information from various blogs and articles until I tumbled upon two crucial relevant information--how to get there and who can guide us around.

The fastest way to get to Whang-Od's home in Buscalan, Tinglayan, Kalinga is through Bontoc. And perhaps the most convenient way to Bontoc is via Cable Tours (Contact: +63.929.819.4688, Location: E. Rodriguez QC, behind Trinity College). Note: you would need to reserve tickets via phone.

Also, for first-time travellers you would need a guide to go to Whang-Od, and for that, Francis Pa-in (+63915.769.08.43) is the man .

Cable Tours bus. Stop-over somewhere very foggy

We were supposed to travel December 26-30, like our almost annual family adventure trips. But when we contacted Francis he mentioned that he has 3 other groups that time and recommended that we go Jan 11 instead.  And so we did.

We took the 8:30pm Manila-Bontoc bus trip. Our ETA was 830 AM but due to traffic, road constructions, and perhaps longer stop-overs, we arrived 9:15AM. Francis met us by the bus stop and mentioned that our transfer bus going to Buscalan has already left the 9 am trip so we needed to wait for the next jeep leaving by 1 PM.  We rested for a while, went to Bontoc Museum, had quick lunch and to the jeep going to Buscalan.

When you're in the north, you got to ride top load of a jeep. The air is fresh, the view is spectacular. Imagine, moving parallel to the Chico river with mountain ranges and rice terraces alternating on the background. But the ride is quite uncomfortable, having yourself sitted on iron bars finding that perfect spot to position your butt cheeks, at the same time keeping your balance and grabbing something you can while riding the bumpy, winding, on-the-edge-of-a-cliff road.

View from the topload. Chico River + Rice Terraces

Best seat .

Co-passengers on the topload. 

After an 1.5 hour ride, we alighted at Bgy. Bugnay. From here, we start our journey by foot.And it donned on me, I'm not physically prepared for this trip. No Exercise + Holiday Weight = Oh No moment. With a heavy backpack filled with 4-day worth of clothes, toiletry kit with loads of bottles of stuff, canned goods and snacks, I can only take a few inclined steps. Francis, our guide, volunteered to exchange backpack with me. His load is a bit lighter, but I still have to battle against the inclined soil steps. For a moment, I wanted to turn around or at least turn-on my whiny mode, but I didn't want to cause delay or hassle to my brothers. I came all the way here to see Whang-Od, and that's what I will do.

Two hour trek

Thank God the initial steep inclined only lasted for less than 30 minutes, then we walked a long flat scenic route. And then we entered a forest, walked along its slippery steps, passing by water falls, and make-shift bridges over a ravine, rice terraces, and  another set of steep steps. My feet hurt, my calves hurt, my right knee hurts. At moments, I regret all the sweets I ate over the holidays and all the times I chose to take the escalator rather than the stairs. School children passed by us (ok just me), and my pride was challenged. I was grasping for breath, sweating buckets, thinking how physically impossible this task may be. Then these school just walked happily, telling stories and laughing. And they do this every single day.

Don't look down

At last we arrived Whang-Od's village. When we arrived, she was on the "bukid"/fields. This 93 year-old lady still goes farming! A few minutes later Whang-Od arrived. She is a very sweet old lady who doesn't speak a word of English or Tagalog. Francis, our guide, translates for us.

Some of the men from the village went to the house and we shared some of the Tanduay Rhum we brought. Apparently, hard drinks are not available/allowed in that area (even in Bontoc). But beer is allowed, and grass is abundant. The bottle of Tanduay only lasted for a few minutes, then the men dispersed one by one.

Whang-Od drinking with the guests

Dinner

We were called for dinner by the kitchen where we ate vegetables sauteed with the can of sardines we brought. About 7PM we were ready to sleep. I dozed off by 8PM and woke up the next morning by the sounds of rain hitting the roof and the ground.

My initial thought was 'how are we going to trek back with this rain'.  Eventually, the rain subsided to light shower. We had breakfast. Whang-Od did performed her tattoo tradition on my brother.

Kalinga traditional tattoo process of hand-tapping is called "batok". Whang-Od creates ink by mixing "uling"/charcoal collected from the bottom of the rice pot as it cooks over fire and fresh water.The combination will make a dark paste called "merteka". Using a dry straw, she draws a template on the skin. Then using a thorn of pomelo as a needle and a stick to hold it in place, her precise hand would lightly tap on the stick to pierce the skin. The process is repeated several times until the tattoo is dark enough. My brother's tattoo took about an hour to finish.

The charcoal collected from the bottom of the rice pot makes the "Merteka"

Whang-Od

After, we walked up the village and saw how the Tinglayans live. I am overwhelmed on the simplicity of their lives. They grow and harvest what they eat.What they plant and harvest from the fields are for their family's consumption and not for selling.  They make what they need. They are very peaceful, polite people. Quite hard to reconcile that they are from a lineage of headhunters. We distributed some matchsticks to the villagers and candies to their children. Then we returned back to Whang-Od's house to say our thank you's and goodbyes.

traditional Kalinga house

"Baboy-ramo"/ Wild boar

The children of Buscalan asking us for some candies

The blacksmiths.

  

I purchased my first hunting knife

with Whang-Od

We trekked back under scattered rain, and we reached Bugnay soaking wet. A few minutes after, the bus going to Bontoc arrived. We quickly said goodbye to Francis and boarded the bus. In the quite uneventful ride back, I relived in my mind the awesome cultural immersion we had in less than 24 hours. Though I did not get a tattoo permanently inked on my body, the experience of living in a Tinglayan village and in Whang-Od's home will forever be tattooed in my mind and my heart. And maybe,the next time I visit Whang-Od, I'll have the courage to be a canvass to tribal art.